products offers magneto magnetizer products. About 16% of these are mobile phone bags & cases, 7% are magnetic materials, and 5% are. “Could you send plans and drawings for the magneto charger in your article?” This was the most frequent inquiry I had after my November GEM article on . I would like to build a magnet charger like the one John Rex wrote in the January I have been a full time Magneto Restorer/Repairman for quite a number of.
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I would like to build a magnet charger like the one John Rex wrote in the January G. Where could the average man pick up some of this? Also, magnetizre good heavy 40 amp knife switch? I like this style charger because, as he states, it will saturate any magnet without removing it form the rest of the assembly. Any help or ideas will be very much appreciated.
Thanks and you all have a Happy New Year! I got the wire from a place that rebuilt industrial electric motors. Told them exactly what I needed and they came up with two spools at a very good price. As for the switch, poke about in old city electric buildings or factory electrical rooms.
My switch came from the electric distribution room of a local manufacturing company. They were ripping all the stuff out magnetizdr tossing it in a dumpster. Traded a dozen donuts to the wrecking crew for the switch. It can charge most mags without dismantling. I have collected all the electrical stuff and am looking for plans for the mechanical components. An outfit out of Oklahoma marketed it as a reprint. They have many more of them and other same subject area reprints at fair prices.
Glad to hear some positive feedback on these magnehizer. It’s my January project. The charger plans from the GEM are great, but I’m afraid it would pull my fillings out of my teeth!
Dave Gingery is a genius when it comes to building stuff from scrap! He’s got a whole series of books to build a complete machine shop from scrap with minimal tools.
Hi Folks, this is not meant to be rain on anyone’s parade, but I feel it is necessary to point out a small fact about Magnet Chargers. These were units built by the manufacturers and intended for use by their own “Factory Authorized” service outlets. The American Bosch unit that sets on my bench at this time weighs pounds. I am of the opinion that if Fairbanks Morse, American Bosch and International Harvester thought that a 25 pound charger would do an adequate job, that is what they would have built.
Please don’t just take my word for it, ask any of the many Mag guys that are in this hobby, there are several that advertise here on Harry’s site and I would be happy to put you in touch more.
Two things go into maneto of magnsto electromagnet. The number of amp-turns AT and the magnetic permeability of the pole pieces. That will determine the maximum field you can generate to charge magnets. Having a large pole to charge a wide variety of magnets means you’ll need a “Rex” -type charger with many turns carrying high current.
The permeability is a characteristic number for the pole pieces used and is the ratio of the amp-turns to magnetic field strength. Some steels have higher permeability than others. BUT, Almost all steels max out or saturate at a magnetic field strength of about 1. If you want to make a better charger, use Alnico steel. In some cases, bigger is not better!
You may think a large BMF charger is better, but if it is operated at a current above saturation, all it will do is make a nice mayneto warmer in winter. I have had good luck with my charger made from two 12v truck starter solenoids.
Paul, I’m thinking of using the coil assembly from K type railroad relay, and reconfiguring the positioning to have the end that originally moved the relay armature marry up magnego the magnet poles. K relays seem to have a lot of magnetic pull, given the design of the armature, and the weight of the coils. My major question is how critical is the mass of the saddle piece across the unused ends of the magnetic coils?
Hi Ted, I have an Allen heavy duty magnetizer that will really do the job. It is very heavy and is powered by volts. I also have made one from windings from Delco starter solenoids that will charge but nothing like the Allen. You can pretend that you charged the magneto or you can charge hell out of it to last forever.
Note the size of the Wico EK compared to the coils. My decision to build the Gingery plan charger was primarily based on the electrical engineering calculations outlined. IE turns heavy 60 amps. The Gingery plan claims “Quote” that at total turns at a max of 10 amps the charger will provide 12, ampere turns of magneto motive force, at least twice what is required to saturate an ordinary magneto magnet.
I felt that was adequate to my needs and it will accommodate a fully assembled Wico EK quite nicely. True, ampere turns do the job, but I still wonder about the actual mass of the iron. I’m no magnet expert, so I’ll forgo the fineries other than to be proud of my Weidenhoff. I do envy your Weidenhoff and yes, mass plays a substantial role.
On the Gingery the cores are 2″ dia x 6″ mangetizer steel mounted on a 4″ x 10″, 1″ thick mild steel plate! A great project and confidence builder for the do-it-yourselfer. My question is, where can you get the pieces of mild steel, or preferably soft iron without having to buy a large piece of material.
I read somewhere that soft iron was best because it doesn’t stay magnetized well and separating the magnet from the magnet charger is a little easier. With the mild steel, do you have any strong residual magnetism after turning off the power? I have always thought that you can have less turns and more current, or more turns and less current in the magnet windings and still do the same amount of work. That magmeto as long as the volts times the amps, comes out to the same value.
Say 10 volts times amps, versus volts times 10 amps, which in both cases equals watts of power, or energy. The number of turns in the coils, and the wire size, or gauge has to be proportionate. Russ, my question is what do you ask for? Is there only one kind? Are there magbeto types? If so, which is best? Mmagneto I knew what to ask for, for magnrto, I would see who wants some and order a bar and cut it to length for those interested.
I wouldn’t want to get stuck with something no one wanted though. I guess I knew what I was thinking, but maybe I didn’t express it too clearly. I am not a metallurgist, so my knowledge of these materials is magnego.
I have read that soft iron, whatever that is, makes a msgneto electromagnet because when you turn off the power to it, the magnetism decays rapidly. I understand that the laminated pole pieces in transformers, motor field windings and any other similar coils used with alternating current have to be soft iron so the magnetic flux can be reversed at whatever frequency it is operating at. This may not be as important on a magnet charger as the polarity is constant in one direction.
I have maynetizer across a number of projects in “Do it Yourself” articles for making electromagnets where they always say use soft iron for the pole pieces. I’m thinking of magnstizer large magnets they use to pick up scrap metal in a junk yard.
They have one of these near me that I have watched on and off. They use a gas engine driven welder on the magnetlzer of the crane to supply the magnet power. When they turn off the power, almost everything falls away from the magnet rather quickly. It is amazing to see an engine block jump a couple feet or so off the ground when the magnet gets close.
Magnet Charger for Magnetos
magnetk Now that is power! On the other hand, you mentioned using mild steel for the pole and base pieces. The question then becomes, what happens when you remove the power. Mabnetizer the decay of magnetism satisfactory? If mild steel is satisfactory for the pole and base pieces, then I can probably get it here locally in the smaller quantities. I have already obtained a couple rolls of heavy magnet wire from a surplus outlet, which has since gone msgneto up, for the project.
I have checked with a couple local steel suppliers and my problem with obtaining the soft iron is that not much of it is ever used locally, so it is not stocked here. The minimum special order required to ship it in amgnetizer more than I was willing to pay for such a small amount of material. The problem with many of these small projects is finding the right materials.
Some people are fortunate to be living in places where these supplies are more common than here in the small city boondocks.
The chamber of commerce will kill me if they read that! Thank you for your comments. Jim, Here’s your wire source www. This company is out of PA. HPT is a magnetizzer wire for the job than Formvar and has a higher temp coating just in case you leave it on too long. Also, Formvar is getting obsolete.
If your going to take the time to build something do it right the first time. It worked out great! It took about 2 hours to locate a supplier for the wire and the only other trouble was finding some high amp rated diodes. But, it’s all together now and boy does it sock the juice to the magnets and it weighs in the lb. The “REX” magentizer charger is the way to go and I am building one now.